Burgundy and Bresse

 

Bourgundy

 

 

 

 

The Burgundy slave necklace

 

The "slave necklaces" from the Burgundy region are quite different from those of other regions such as Normandy or Auvergne.  The form of the plaques, which are stamped in relief and embellished with Rhinestones or enamelled discs from Bourg-en-Bresse, is unique to this region.  These necklaces are quite rare in solid gold, and are mostly found made in rolled gold (doublé).

 

 


coiffe and costume from Macon with slave necklace

 

 


"slave necklace" from Burgundy in gold, enamel and Rhinestones


"slave necklace" from Burgundy in gold, pearls and Rhinestones

 


detail (200%)

 

 

 


"slave necklace" in rolled gold and enamel

click on the photos to see them in high resolution

     

 


"slave necklace" from Burgundy in rolled gold and enamel

 

 


"slave necklace" from Burgundy in rolled gold and enamel

 

 

 


"slave necklace" from Burgundy in gold, enamel and Rhinestones

 

 

 


"esclavage" (slave) necklace and French folk-dress from the Macon region

 

 

 

The 'rangs d'or' necklace

 



"rang d'or" necklace from Burgundy in rolled gold

 

 

 


 "rang d'or" necklace worn in Bourg-en-Bresse (Ain department)

 

 

 

 

The wedding cup

 

In Burgundy the bride was offered a wedding cup in silver or engraved glass for drinking during the ceremony; for the less fortunate families the cup was made of pewter. The Burgundy wedding cup, of a shape distinctive to the region, was usually engraved with the wife's name or her initials. This wedding cup was later used for everyday use as well as during baptisms and communions and eventually placed in front of the coffin of the deceased and filled with holy water ...

The family usually offered a beaker or wedding cup to the woman and a wine cup (tastevin) to the man. In the past, one had to bring one’s own eating utensils if one wanted to eat or drink in an inn or party and the flat shape of the tastevin was studied to be easily transportable in a pocket. ¨For more modest people, the cups and tastevins were made in pewter or even wood.

 

 

 

 


Burgundy silver wedding cup, c1780, (50%)


Burgundy silver wedding cup, 1855, argent (50%)

 

 



"esclavage" (slave) necklace and French folk-dress from the Macon region

 

 

 

 


  pair of coiffe pins in gold with brass stems

 


 pair of coiffe pins in steel with glass pearls

 

 

 



brionnaise folk-dress

 

 

 

The Mâcon cross


Mâcon cross in gilt metal with velvet ribbon decorated with sequins and spangles

 

This cross with its ribbon was sold to the Victoria et Albert museum during the International Exhibition of 1872 in London and claimed to be from the town of Mâcon.  I have no other trace of similar crosses from Macon.  It is made of gilt metal and the museum paid one pound and 14 shillings for it.

 

 


Mâcon cross in steel with velvet ribbon decorated with sequins, spangles and other motifs in cut and polished steel

 

 

This cross with it's ribbon was sold to the Victoria et Albert museum during the International Exhibition of 1872 in London and claimed to be from the town of Macon.  I have no other trace of similar crosses from Mâcon.  It is made of cut or stamped steel and the museum paid 17 shillings and six pence for it.  During the Exhibition, the French Superior Commission of Exhibitions wrote in it's report -  "At Mâcon, pretty little plates of polished steel, cut with great finesse and as if they were stamped out, are fixed on velvet necklaces, like those that our elegant Parisians did not disdain to wear just a few years ago." (1)  The question is, were these  necklaces really worn at Macon, or did the commission simply see necklaces that the Parisian jewellers had concocted for sale to the London market and exhibited on the Burgundy stand?



 

 

 

Bresse

 

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewel


cross garnished with enamels from Bresse, silver

 bijoux de France - French

 

 

 
cross garnished with enamels from Bresse, silver (150%)
 
cross garnished with enamels from Bresse, silver (150%)
 

 

 

 


cross garnished with enamels from Bresse, silver

 

 

Although these enamelled crosses were popular around their production zone of Bourg en Bresse, they were also worn in other regions of France and thus cannot strictly be considered to be regional crosses.  Small enamelled plaques made in Bourg en Bresse were sold throughout France to local jewellers who assembled them into slave necklaces, crosses, earrings and other jewels.  In the collection of the Victoria et Albert Museum in London there are numerous "Bressan" crosses and ear pendants bought from the Parisian jeweller Paul Ydrot during the International Exhibition of 1872.  Paul Ydrot only opened his workshop in 1870 and sold his crosses to the museum for between £1.2s.6d et £1.9s (the equivalent of  €340 to €450 today).



 

 bijoux de FrWance - Fre

 


Mary medal with Bresse enamels, gold

 

 


Ear pendants with Bresse enamels in silver

/ckfinder/userfiles/images/grands/croix_en_email_de_bresse_Bressan.jpg regional jewelry - Antique jewelry


collier d'esclavage (slave necklace) in gold set with enamels from Bresse

 bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


coiffe pin in gold set with an enamel plaque

 

The little gold plaques, like the one on this pin, were made in Bourg en Bresse and sold throughout France to be lead-soldered onto jewels by the local jewellers.

 

         
silver locket with Bresse enamel decoration

 

 

These little gold plaques, made in Bourg en Bresse, were sold throughout France and were then lead-soldered onto jewels by the local jewellers.

 


Charles Robert Leslie - The travelling jewellery salesman

 

 

 


French regional costume - Bressane

           bijoux de France - French regional jewelry - Antique jewelry

 


necklace, hat and folk-dress from Bresse region

 

 

necklace, hat and folk-dress from Bresse region

 

 

 

Bressan hat with its plated chain
 

Bressan hat with its plated chain

 

 

The Bressan hats are always garnished with a long gilt chain, often ending with an acorn-shaped sphere.

Bressan hat with its plated chain
   

Bressan hat with its plated chain

click on the photos to see them in high resolution

 


Bressane folk costume

 

 

 

 


Bressane folk costumes
 



(1)     CANZIANI, Estella., Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy, Chatto and Windus 1911
(2)     JOANNIS, Claudette.,
Bijoux des régions de France,  Flammarion, 1992

(3)     SEVEZ, Laurent., Notice sur la bijouterie et l'iconographie religieuse des campagnes de la Savoie, Mémoires et documents publié par la Société savoisienne d'histoire et d'archéologie, 1862
(4)     de LAS CASES, Philippe, L'Art Rustique en France - Dauphiné et Savoie, 1930

(5)    VICAIRE, Gabriel., Emaux Bressans, H. Lardanchet - Editeur, 1919
(6)     CANZIANI, Estella., Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy, Chatto and Windus, 1911 
(7)     LUCE, Denys., Un mois à Aix en Savoie, impressions et souvenirs, 1875 

(8)     LAS CASES, Philippe., L'Art Rustique en France - Dauphiné et Savoie, Etablissement Busson, 1930
(9)     BISCH, Paul., Notes sur les bijoux de Savoie, Société Dauphinoise d'Ethnologie et d'Archéologie, 1954

(10)   DUFOURNET, Paul., L'art populaire en Savoie, Christine Bonneton Editeur, 1981
(11)   JACQUES, André., Enquete sur les bijoux des paysans de Savoie, Revue de Savoie, 1956

 

 

 

contenu

Bijoux bressans, croix de Bresse, croix bressane, émaux de Bresse, email bressan, CARO, Delphine, BENON Laurent & FAIVRE, Aurélie., Emaux de Bresse - Joyaux du quotidien,  VICAIRE, Gabriel., Emaux Bressans, H. Lardanchet, AGNES, Bruno., Emaux bressans parures charmantes, Taillanderie, CANZIANI, Estella., Costumes, traditions and songs of Savoy, Chatto and Windus 1911     CANZIANI, Estella., Costumes, moeurs et légendes de Savoie, Editions Equinoxe, 2003, DEQUIER, Daniel & ISLER, François., Costumes de fêtes en Savoie, EVEZ, Laurent., Notice sur la bijouterie et l'iconographie religieuse des campagnes de la Savoie, TROSSET, Jean-Pierre., Bijoux et croix des provinces de Savoie, Chez l'auteur, 2003, TROSSET, Jean-Pierre., Les croix de Savoie, Chez l'auteur, 1993, bijoux savoyards, croix savoyarde, croix grille de Chambéry, croix dauphiné, croix des Villards, croix bosse, Saint Colomban des Villards, croix bessans, croix à l'as, croix de Valloire, croix fleuri, créoles savoyards, croix gapençais, croix de Faucigny, croix plate pattée


 


French regional jewellery - Burgundy